We don’t need celebrities polluting the fashion industry with aimless designs

From polluting the fashion market and literal planet to stealing from actual designers, celebrity's forays into fashion are contributing us less and less

In 2019, Think Money reported that 49% of young Brits would buy clothing simply because they like the celebrity endorsing or creating it. With the launch of Kylie Jenner’s new clothing brand, it feels like every other celebrity is trying their luck in the fashion industry. I’m left wondering if the celebrity to fashion designer pipeline will eventually become the norm, contributing to an already oversaturated fashion landscape. The vast majority of celebrity fashion brands possess a customary lack of singularity. Their lines usually consist of low-quality, modish, ill-considered items. Due to their reliance on the relentless trend cycle, they influence their customers into purchasing trendy throwaway pieces, rather than purchasing versatile, long-term items. This harmful notion contributes to a plethora of problems in the Global South. For example, The Guardian reported that fast fashion is one of the main causes of water pollution in Ghana. On top of this, the perpetuation of fast fashion continually contributes to companies' poor labour practices and therefore treatment of their garment workers, Emma Ross explains.  Despite this, thanks to fair fashion campaigners such as Venetia La Manna, The Or Foundation’s “Speak Volumes” campaign, Love Island’s partnership with eBay, and BBC Panorama documentary “Boohoo's Broken Promises”, a desire for sustainable, ethical, and independent fashion has become more mainstream. Despite tone deaf celebrities continuing to pollute the fashion industry with aimless designs.

Naomi Campbell’s collaboration with Pretty Little Thing, a brand owned by the notoriously harmful Boohoo Group, is just one example of celebrity endorsed fast fashion. In 2020, journalists from The Sunday Times revealed that Boohoo’s garment workers were being paid £3.50 an hour. In addition to the unethical working practices harnessed by the Boohoo group, the company provides no information regarding environmental issues caused by their mass production. Despite this, in September, Pretty Little Thing announced the launch of their new collection in collaboration with millionaire supermodel Naomi Campbell. This collaboration unsettled many, but its success served as a prominent reminder that celebrity endorsement sells, even in light of the brand’s shameful practices. Singer-songwriter Rihanna has also ventured into the world of fashion with her lingerie and loungewear brand, Savage X Fenty (SXF). SXF is widely praised for its diversity, with models of different sizes, skin tones, genders, and ages. Whilst SXF has had a positive impact on the inclusion of marginalised groups in the Global North, it’s hard to consider this a genuine feat when marginalised groups in the Global South are being exploited in the name of inclusivity. SXF was one of the lowest ranking companies covered in Remake’s 2022 Fashion Accountability Report, scoring a depressing four points out of 150 and demonstrating a complete lack of both ethical and sustainable standards. The juxtaposition between the brand's ethos and its inadequate practices is incredibly disappointing; it all feels very Black Mirror.

In addition to their lack of ethics, celebrity fashion brands serve to undermine the work of young designers and creatives. The fashion industry’s fixation on celebrity endorsement has minimised the already limited opportunities and resources available to emerging designers. This obstructs the possibility of more diversity of the fashion landscape because a saturated market leaves less room for actual designers with something fresh to offer. Meanwhile already established celebrities are able to profit further under the pseudonym of ‘fashion designer’ whilst the title loses all meaning. A prime example occurred just last month. Kylie Jenner announced her new clothing brand, Khy by Kylie Jenner. Already, the brand has come under fire following accusations that it copied designs from Betsy Johnson. The Grimsby-born fashion designer took to Instagram to say: “While I stare @ my student debt. Worked my ass off for this. Like so many other working-class kids who bust their ass for expertise.” Billionaires stealing from smaller creatives is a story that is all too familiar. On top of this, the Khy website includes no information about its manufacturing practices, nothing about sustainability, lacking transparency in all aspects. The only thing that is clear is that the brand's staple pieces are made from nylon and elastane derived from fossil fuels.


Celebrity fashion designers and their brands have a clear negative impact on the environment, workers rights, consumerism, young creatives, and the overall health of the fashion industry. As a fashion enthusiast I don’t want to see the industry become something that is completely harmful and impenetrable. It is important that we work towards a more sustainable fashion landscape in all aspects, and ensure that garment workers, young creatives, and the environment are treated kindly in the process.The Or Foundation’s “Speak Volumes” campaign is a call for all brands to be transparent about their production volumes. This way, fast fashion companies and celebrity brands alike are held accountable for their environmental impact. Hopefully, spotlighting mass clothing production will cause both brands and consumers to interact with fashion in a healthier way, and create a fashion industry that champions sustainability and smaller creatives. If you believe that fashion deserves a positive future, you can support The Or Foundation’s “Speak Volumes” campaign here


Article by Hannah Kitty Brownbill 

 


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